Medieval Domfront
Historic Walking Tour - Number 1

Step back in time as we pass through the streets of ancient Domfront to experience Normandy in the Middle Ages. Don't be deceived that the tranquil town we see today was always provincial, for we are walking in the shadow of kings. In these narrow streets battles raged and some of the greatest figures in European history tarried to enjoy a few fleeting moments of peace before history hurtled them to their demises.

This ancient town, the ‘Cité Médiévale,’ is surrounded by a maze of impressive ramparts and protected by 24 massive towers, 11 of which now survive. Standing alone at one end of the town was the mighty and strategically important fortress originally built in 1011 by William de Belleme and strengthened by Henry I, King of England. This tour starts at the Tourist Information Office in the ...

1: PLACE DE LA MAIRIE
In the Middle Ages this large square was the site of the covered market. Its favourable position just outside the fortress wall ensured that all trade could easily be monitored by the lord of the castle, his tax collector and the local guilds. The only vestige of the great markets that once filled this square, is the cattle fair held here every spring.
Now the square is dominated by the 19th Century Town Hall, built on the site of the former convent of St. Anthony. At the eastern end of the square (standing with your back to the castle), between the two streets stands a 17th century town-house.
Walk down the street to the left of this house (Rue Clément Bigot).

2: SQUARE TOWER, Rue Clément Bigot
On you right is a lone tower, once part of the protective wall around the medieval city, which contained the stairs leading to the top of the ramparts. During an attack this enclosed stairway protected the citizens from enemy fire while allowing for the easy movement of supplies to the defenders on the ramparts. The interior is not accessible to visitors.
Further down the road, on the left, is the "Place de Panorama" (so named for the impressive views over the countryside). This open area was created after the street was bombed during the Allied offensive of 1944.
Turn right under the archway, then right again.

3: PLACE ST JULIEN
Enter the ancient square of "Place St. Julien". Until this century this pretty little medieval square was used for the traditional Farmers Market where flowers, fruits and vegetables were sold from carts and barrows. At that time the square bustled with restaurants and shops of every description.
The area is now tranquil with pretty half-timbered houses clustered around the square, particularly notable are No. 4 & 6. In fine weather a cafe sets up tables outside where locals and tourists mix to enjoy the ambience and the sun.
Pass by No. 4 and enter the smaller "Place de Marcere," site of the old Royal Financial Court. This Court was abolished by the infamous Robespierre during the French Revolution and the "reign of terror".
At the far end of the square turn left.

4: RUE DU DOCTEUR BARRABE
The former ambience of this residential street is again coming to life as many houses have been painstakingly restored. At No.18 it is interesting to note the granite lintel over the door which is emblazoned with a coat of arms consisting of a heart and two stars. This was once the entrance to Domfront's substantial armoury.
Walk under the archway between No. 19 & 21 and enter this secluded courtyard.

5: HOTEL MARIE DU ROCHER
Stepping into this courtyard is like stepping back 300 years. This fine 17th century town-house was formerly an inn.
Retrace your steps to the street.
At No. 38 there is a 16th century half-timbered house. Facing it is the entrance to the "Roullin-Martiniere" mansion. At the crossroads it is worth taking a look at the old houses set in private courtyards.

6: PRISON AUX ANGLAIS
No. 52, the "English Prison" has (appropriately) two levels of vaulted cellars. Cellars are rare in Domfront as the city is built on extremely hard granite, which makes it difficult to dig into (or out of). Used by the English in the 11th - 14th centuries and by the French during the Religious wars and the French Revolution, the cramped cells hid many heinous punishments and tortures.
A few yards away, on the right is,
"Porte Cadin" Alley,one of the medieval entrances to the old town.
Walk down the "Grande Rue" (opposite).
On your left above the street you will notice an unusual look-out turret.

7: PAVILLON DE BOUDÉ
Set in a garden, this fine lodge was once part of the "Château de Godras," the magnificent mansion of Domfront's Governors from the 16th to the 17th Centuries.
Continue down Grande Rue to the end of the street and cross "Rue de Barbacanes." Turn left at the next corner into the very steep "Rue du Chêne Vert" at the top of which you arrive at:

8: PLACE DU CHAMP DE FOIRE
In medieval times this open area was the site of the "Angevine Fair". The word Angevine is a reference to the Count of Anjou, who first gave licence for Domfront to hold a fair. In the 12th Century, Geoffrey, Count of Anjou came to Domfront and married Matilda, the daughter of King Henry I of England. Their son was to become the first Plantagenant King of England, Henry II.

Sadly the area has lost its purpose and has become somewhat derelict. On the North side is the:

9: LYCEE A. CHEVALIER
Founded in 1689, this is the oldest school in Normandy that is still within its original walls. Its chapel, built in 1730, has become a local theatre. The present facade was added in 1904 and reflects the architectural influence of the Beaux-art that swept the country at the time.

Follow the "Rue de Godras" on your left towards the old town, and proceed to the bridge with its view of:

10: PORTE DE LA BRIERE (Moor Gate), also called Porte de Godras"
Until the 15th Century, when the Alençon Gate superseded it, this was the eastern gate of the town.
Ahead on your left is the northern front of the "Pavillion de Boudé".
Cross "Place de la Liberté" with its war memorial and the neo-classical "Palace de Justice" and walk up to the front of the church.

11: EGLISE SAINT-JULIEN
This landmark is a "must see" for anyone interested in Twentieth Century architecture.

The massive church, built in 1926, is an early example of construction in reinforced concrete. It replaced a smaller church (built in 1744, but used to house animals during the French Revolution before being reconsecrated in 1796) that could no longer accommodate the growing population. The avant-guard design allows for the interior to be free from the intrusion of internal pillars and supports. The "Byzantine" interior is richly decorated and just bursting with mosaics.
Unfortunately, this building technique was still experimental when the church was built. Over the years the elements have caused the steel within the cement to rust and expand resulting in severe structural damage to the building.

On June 14 1944, the cupola of the church collapsed during the American bombardment (9th Air Force) of the town. A plaque next to the church describes the damage caused by this one allied assault on the town.

This important church remains open to visitors while it undergoes renovation during 2000.

As you exit the church into the "Place Albert Christophle" notice the traditional half-timber landmark "au Bar Normand" across the street. When Domfront was the regional market town, this little square was where the butter, egg and dairy market was held.
Walk around the church down:

12: RUE DE LA POTERNE
This square, the "Place de Commerce," was the site of the Pig Market. During market days the town must have been teeming with farmers jostling to sell their produce, and filled with the aroma of the various markets. At the end of the square is another gate through the ramparts into the old town. The left tower can still be seen, but the right has disappeared.
Off this square is Rue de Maréchal de Matignon. The road commemorates Matignon's successful siege of Domfront in the 16th century, when he routed a Protestant uprising. Count Gabriel de Montgomery, the leader of the Protestant Huguenots, was treacherously captured at Domfront in 1574, taken prisoner and handed over to Queen Catherine de Medici for execution in Paris.
Further down is another tower.
At the crossroads, turn right into "Rue de Barbacanes." At the corner are the remains of what was the highest tower of the ramparts. It stood here until 1970 when it suddenly collapsed. This street is dug into the rock and was once the old moat that protected the town.
Walk down to the main crossroads.
From outside the fortified town of Domfront you can view the city walls, the numerous defences and towers.
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