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Disclaimer. No responsibility whatsoever is implied with regard to any other make or model of vehicle! These checks should be carried out with great caution and, if unsure, have the vehicle checked by a professional or someone suitably experienced!
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First ensure if possible that the tyres are as near cold as possible! Obviously it could be difficult when you have driven to a garage to get them checked! However, wherever possible, try to check them when the tyres are cold!
To check them, you will need a tyre pressure gauge usually with a scale marked in PPI ( pounds per square inch)! Remove the valve cover from the tyre valve ( remember the tyre valves on cycles, well it's really a bigger version)! Place the tyre pressure gauge onto the valve and take a reading...if correct then ok, if not inflate with either your own or the garage tyre inflator until the correct pressure is achieved! If the tyre was hot when tested, then it will probably be giving higher readings ( because air expands when hot). I usually accept about two pounds per sq inch over the recommended tyre pressure to allow for the heat in the tyres! Note...some pressures are given in " bars "...this is just the metric equivalent of our imperial pounds per square inch! Note: On my vehicle and many others, it is normal for there to be different pressures in the front and back wheels! Once checked, replace the valve caps to keep out the dirt! ( note! the normal tyre pressures for the Citroen Saxo with my specific tyres fitted are, Front = 2.2 bars and Rear = 2.3 bars ) Other vehicles or models will vary!
Tyre Wear and tread depth!
Checking tread depth is carried out with a tread depth gauge and currently the legal minimum depth of tread is 1.6mm ( more information is shown in the respective diagrams)
The examiner is likely to say " Show me how you would check your tyre pressure or how you would check your tyres for tread depth "
With the engine cold or, switched off for at least ten minutes to allow the oil to drain down intro the sump, take out the dipstick and wipe with a rag and re insert the dipstick and withdraw again, noting this time where the oil level is with regard to the two notches at the bottom of the dipstick ( see diagrams) It should lie between the two marks, preferably just about at the top mark!
Topping up the oil level is facilitated by removing the cap on the top of the engine rocker cover ( see diagram ) and carefully adding only sufficient oil to raise the oil level on the dipstick to the " maximum " mark!
Oil should be checked every week or before a long journey!
The examiner is likely to say " Show me how you would check the oil level and /or how you would top it up! "
Simple!!!! Switch them on and walk round and check them! That's all! You could always look for reflections in shop windows, garage doors (especially in the dark) or even get someone to help you by walking round and checking for you!
Brake Lights
It is best if you get help on this one!! Find someone to check the brake lights while you depress the brake-pedal (usually with the ignition switched on!). You can also look for reflections, especially in the dark!
Indicators
If the examiner asks you to show him how you would check whether your indicators are working, DON'T bother with switching the ignition on and going through getting in and out of the car, switching from one direction and then another! Instead, simply switch on the " Hazard Warning Lights"! This will switch on ALL the indicators at one time!
Fuses
Normally if a fuse " blows ", there is a cause, so have it checked at once! However, occasionally, fuses blow for no apparent reason! To replace a fuse, remove the cover ( see diagram ) and with the pair of plastic tweezers supplied, remove the offending fuse and replace with the correct replacement!
The examiner is likely to say " Tell me how you'd check your lights or Show me how you would replace a fuse !"
Coolant Level
First.. NEVER check the coolant with the engine running as, there may be pressure built up with the water expanding in the engine cooling system! If this happens, you could be seriously scalded as you remove the header tank cap! ( see diagram )!
First, let the engine cool AT LEAST 15 minutes, then with a cloth covering the cap, carefully release it slowly, to allow pressure to ease! Next check that the coolant lies between the upper and lower marks where one checks the level! ( you will be shown by me!)
If your vehicle overheats, stop immediately and contact professional help as an overheated engine causes major damage which could prove very costly indeed!
Brake Fluid
This is the fluid that passes through your brake pipes and exerts pressure on your brake discs/drums in order to slow or stop the vehicle! If the warning light appears, STOP immediately! To proceed could be fatal!
To check the brake fluid level.. as with the oil try and find a level place for the vehicle and locate the brake fluid reservoir ( see diagram ) and look for the fluid level on the side! ( it is constructed from semi-opaque material which facilitates viewing of fluid level ). If it needs topping up, replace with recommended fluid only to the correct level!
Windscreen washer fluid
The reservoir supplies both the front and rear washers! Found under the bonnet, behind the offside front headlight! ( your left as you are looking under the bonnet!)
Top up with the correct additive + water, until it reaches almost to the top of the reservoir!
The examiner is likely to say Tell or Show how you would, check the coolant level ( and show how you would top it up, also the brake fluid levels and windscreen washer fluids!)
The obvious sign of handbrake wear is the length of pull on the handbrake! Another way is to pull on the handbrake reasonably while stationary on a steep hill. .
If it fails to hold and requires excessive pulls on the handbrake, it needs attention!
A more drastic way to do this if there are no hills close by
is to apply the handbrake and attempt to move off very slowly! A good handbrake
would cause the vehicle to stall on light revs....if it moves off very easily
with light accelerator pressure, it is probably worn!
If the examiner asks how you would be
able check if it is worn, explain as above!
How can I tell if my power steering is working?
A simple answer would be to try turning the steering wheel while the engine is switched off"! It should feel very heavy to turn indeed! Next, try starting the engine and the wheel should turn easily! If the steering is still heavy, then the power steering needs attention! It could be that it needs "the power steering fluid" topped up! ( see diagram for details )
There are two bonnet releases on modern vehicles! The first release is situated ( Citroen Saxo ) under the passenger (nearside) footwell ( below the " glove compartment). Pull it towards you until a distinct " clunk " is heard! That is the bonnet undergoing the " first release "! This is for safety, in that there is a second release to pull in order that the bonnet can be lifted! The second is of major importance as if this wasn't fitted and the bonnet wasn't secured correctly, then the bonnet could fly open while moving with obvious serious consequences!
This second release can be found concealed in the " black grill " attached to the bonnet! Put your fingers in and release the catch! Now, lift the bonnet with both hands and raise it in the air! While keeping it suspended in the air with the left arm...unhook the catch and pull down the bonnet support! Carefully, insert the end of the support into the receiving point to maintain the bonnet in the raised position! Do NOT hold the bonnet support rod by the tip of it as, you could trap your fingers as you insert it into the receiving point!
I will personally teach you this technique if necessary, so that you can carry out this exercise unaided!